Finding vintage jewelry and carved items at thrift stores can be exciting. But sometimes you might wonder: is this piece made from ivory or bone? Knowing the difference is important for resellers and collectors. Ivory has strict laws around it, while bone is usually fine to buy and sell.

Why This Matters for Your Business

Real ivory comes from elephants, walruses, and other animals. Many types of ivory are illegal to sell in most places. Bone, on the other hand, comes from cattle and other common animals. It’s usually okay to buy and sell bone items.

Getting this wrong could mean legal trouble or lost money. But don’t worry – with practice, you can learn to spot the differences.

The Quick Visual Test

Look at the grain pattern first. This is your best clue.

Ivory has thin, curved lines that look like they’re flowing. Think of how tree rings curve, but much finer. These lines are called Schreger lines. They cross each other at angles less than 90 degrees.

Bone has small dots and holes scattered around. These are called Haversian canals – tiny channels that once held blood vessels. You might need a magnifying glass to see them clearly. The pattern looks more random, like tiny holes poked in the surface.

The Weight Test

Pick up the piece and feel its weight.

Ivory feels heavy for its size. It’s dense and solid.

Bone feels lighter. It’s more porous inside, so it weighs less than ivory of the same size.

Color Clues to Look For

Fresh ivory is usually white or cream colored. Old ivory often turns yellow or brown over time.

Bone can be white when new, but it often has a grayer tone. Old bone might look more brownish-gray.

Texture Differences

Run your finger over the surface.

Ivory feels smooth and almost waxy. It has a soft, warm feeling.

Bone feels rougher and more porous. You might feel tiny bumps or slight texture.

The Blacklight Test

If you have a UV blacklight, this can help eliminate some materials, but it’s not foolproof.

Both ivory and bone glow under blacklight – usually appearing bluish-white. This test is most useful for spotting fake plastic items, which glow bright blue or purple.

Important: This test alone cannot tell ivory from bone. Use it to rule out obvious fakes, not to confirm what you have.

Temperature Test

Hold the piece for a few seconds.

Ivory stays cool to the touch longer.

Bone warms up faster in your hands.

The Hot Needle Test

This is more reliable than the temperature test, but only use it on items you own.

Heat a needle until it’s hot and touch a hidden spot. Both ivory and bone will smell like burned hair or bone. Plastic will melt and smell like burned plastic.

This test helps tell natural materials from fake ones, but won’t distinguish ivory from bone.

What About Teeth?

Sometimes you might find carved teeth at sales. Here’s what to know:

• Elephant teeth are actually ivory and have the same rules as tusks
• Whale teeth (scrimshaw) have special laws too
• Regular animal teeth (like cow or pig) are usually fine to sell

Red Flags to Watch For

Be extra careful if you see:

• Very detailed carvings
• Asian-style figures or scenes
• Items that look very old and expensive
• Pieces with signatures or maker marks
• Large solid pieces (real ivory is valuable)

When in Doubt

If you’re not sure, here are your best options:

1. Don’t buy it – Skip items you can’t identify
2. Ask an expert – Find a local antique appraiser
3. Research the seller – Ask where the item came from
4. Check online guides – Look up similar pieces

Legal Stuff You Need to Know

Federal laws make it illegal to sell most elephant ivory across state lines. Some states have even stricter rules.

Antique ivory (over 100 years old) has different rules, but you need proof of age.

International sales of ivory are mostly banned worldwide.

Bone items don’t have these restrictions in most places.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Don’t assume plastic is bone. Modern plastic can look very similar to bone. Do the temperature test – plastic feels different.

Don’t trust the blacklight test alone. Both ivory and bone can glow under UV light. Use it to spot obvious fakes, not to confirm what you have.

Don’t skip the pattern check. This is your most reliable test.

Building Your Skills

The more pieces you examine, the better you’ll get at telling them apart. Start by:

• Visiting museums to see labeled examples
• Asking experienced dealers for advice
• Practicing on items you know are bone
• Taking photos to compare patterns

Smart Shopping Tips

At estate sales: Ask the family about the item’s history.

At thrift stores: Check multiple pieces to practice identifying patterns.

Online: Be extra careful since you can’t touch or test the item.

Auctions: Read descriptions carefully and ask questions.

What This Means for Your Profits

Bone items can still be valuable, especially if they’re well-carved or antique. Don’t pass them up just because they’re not ivory.

Verified antique ivory can be worth a lot, but the legal risks might not be worth it for casual resellers.

Focus on bone pieces – they’re easier to sell and you won’t have legal worries.

Final Tips for Success

Start small while you’re learning. Practice on cheaper items before investing in expensive pieces. Build relationships with other dealers who can help you learn.

Remember, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. When you’re not sure about a piece, it’s often best to pass on it. There are plenty of other great finds out there.

The antique and vintage market has lots of beautiful bone pieces that are completely legal to buy and sell. With practice, you’ll get good at spotting them and building a profitable business.

Quick Reference Checklist

Before you buy, check:

• Pattern (curved lines = ivory, tiny dots = bone)
• Weight (heavy = ivory, lighter = bone)
• Feel (smooth = ivory, rough = bone)
• Use magnification to see details clearly
• Your local laws about selling these items
• When in doubt, don’t buy

Happy hunting, and remember to always follow your local laws when buying and selling vintage items!